And with all the activity comes all the eating. I love watching Americans order in restaurants—three beverages in front of them, asking a dozen questions, asking for substitutions, more sauce-less sauce, ordering extra side dishes only to barely touch them, sending back carrot juice because it wasn’t fresh-squeezed, merely squeezed. But one of the highlights of the junket has to be three incredible breakfasts I devour, and I’m not really a breakfast person.

The first over-the-top breakfast comes at The Guild House, part of a large group of restaurants helmed by home-town restaurateur Cameron Mitchell. The Smoked Chicken Hash comprises poached eggs sitting on a mix of smoked chicken, roasted sweet potatoes, bacon, roasted poblano chili peppers, caramelized onions, gouda and salsa verde. Sweet. Jesus.

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The next day in the private dining room at Ambrose & Eve, my Mountaineer is a buttermilk biscuit sandwich (get out the gluten pills) filled with eggs, a hashbrown, bacon and a mayonnaise-style cold-egg sauce—all insanely good. I vow to return another day for the fish and grits and/or the salmon-caviar omelette.

At The Keep Kitchen brasserie in the historic Leveque Tower, I inhale an Egg in a Hole—not “the hole” but “a hole,” so sensible, as there is only one—built of toasted brioche, cured French ham and a poached egg swimming in mornay sauce, which is béchamel with cheese, like that sauce needed to be richer. Superb.

Who knew breakfast was such a thing? But when it’s 2,000 calories three days in a row, you’re pretty much left with no lunch and a piece of gluten-free toast for dinner. As if.

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