Partially built over the old rampart, Auberge Saint-Antoine has worked archaeological treasures discovered on the site into its décor. Unearthed crockery, glass, hardware and household items, some dating back to the 1600s, punctuate cozy nooks, room entrances and lobby walls. Fitting then, that Saint Antoine is the patron saint of lost articles.

Vibe: Find classic comfort in every corner with museum-like surroundings and polished, anticipatory service. This hotel is quintessentially Quebec in every way—sophisticated but not stuffy, elegant but not exaggerated. Guests are a mix of well-heeled tourists and regular creative business patrons taking comfort in a refined atmosphere of functional luxury.

Rooms: Ninety-five rooms and suites in eight different categories make for a sound sleep, all reflecting a different style—no cookie-cutting design here. In general, though, a mix of traditional and contemporary styling brings together natural colours, stone walls, tufted or studded textured headboards, low furnishings, faux-fur and velvets, flowing drapery and unexpected patterns. Colourful, bright bathrooms gleam and heated flooring is very welcome in this part of the world. Suites range up to 700 square feet, plus a panoramic room at 750 square feet on the top floor.

DAY TRIP: VISIT THE ICE HOTEL

F&B: Housed in a rustic, reclaimed 19th-century warehouse overlooking the St. Lawrence River, Chez Muffy restaurant uses Old World slow-cooking techniques to produce classic French and Canadian fare made with ingredients grown on its own farm on nearby Île d’Orléans. Expect a farm-to-fork, family-style experience, “simplified gastronomy” in the form of Quebec walleye in a wild mushroom broth, venison striploin or spiced roast duck to share—all rich and comforting. The wine cellar holds more than 12,000 bottles from 14 different countries. The long and skinny lobby lounge bar Artefact is comfortable and cool. A nice pitstop between shopping and your room.

Extras: Top-floor suites are especially charming with original sloping beamed ceilings and harbour views.

Off-Site: The auberge is a short walk from the Musée de la civilization and steps away from the cobblestoned square Place Royale. The historic Old Port is right outside the door, offering up haute heritage, marina and markets, and plenty of shopping.

Rate: $$$
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Vibe: InnBuffalo is a charming B&B-boutique hotel hybrid as intimate and individual as the Elmwood Village neighbourhood itself. With only nine rooms, you get to know everyone else fairly quickly. Guests are small-hotel fans who like the comradery B&Bs generally create. The inn is also great for those who like their hotel rooms to look like they belong in a museum; people for whom “antique” is maybe a verb. The innkeeper himself stands out a mile, the epitome of hospitality—genuine, full of stories, quick with a handshake.

THINGS TO DO: IN BUFFALO

Rooms: “I sell sleep,” Joe reveals on the front porch one morning over coffee. As such, beds are extremely comfortable, surrounded by antique furniture. New and bright subway-tiled ensuite bathrooms have heated marble flooring. Rooms also come equipped with Keurig coffeemakers and free Wi-Fi.

F&B: Breakfast is king at InnBuffalo, with scones and bread-baked fresh daily, made-to-order egg dishes and fruity pancakes. It’s like Mom just asks you what you want. Have the signature spinach scramble.

Extras: The inn is a “preservation in progress,” with many original elements in tact. Common areas are filled with period furnishings, including leaded glass-panelled bookcases, coffered ceilings, silk damask wallcoverings, varnished secretaries and a basement billiards table. This is a boon for restoration students from nearby Buffalo State, who get to practice on the parts of the mansion that still need attention.

Off-Site: Elmwood Village is in central Buffalo just south of Delaware Park, about one mile from downtown. It has a reputation for being one of the city’s more cosmopolitan neighbourhoods, filled with popular independent shops, cafés, bars and restaurants. The Albright-Knox Art Gallery is a 20-minute walk north. The Peace Bridge is a 15-minute drive away. Niagara Falls is a 30-minute drive away.

Rate: $$

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