Partially built over the old rampart, Auberge Saint-Antoine has worked archaeological treasures discovered on the site into its décor. Unearthed crockery, glass, hardware and household items, some dating back to the 1600s, punctuate cozy nooks, room entrances and lobby walls. Fitting then, that Saint Antoine is the patron saint of lost articles.

Vibe: Find classic comfort in every corner with museum-like surroundings and polished, anticipatory service. This hotel is quintessentially Quebec in every way—sophisticated but not stuffy, elegant but not exaggerated. Guests are a mix of well-heeled tourists and regular creative business patrons taking comfort in a refined atmosphere of functional luxury.

Rooms: Ninety-five rooms and suites in eight different categories make for a sound sleep, all reflecting a different style—no cookie-cutting design here. In general, though, a mix of traditional and contemporary styling brings together natural colours, stone walls, tufted or studded textured headboards, low furnishings, faux-fur and velvets, flowing drapery and unexpected patterns. Colourful, bright bathrooms gleam and heated flooring is very welcome in this part of the world. Suites range up to 700 square feet, plus a panoramic room at 750 square feet on the top floor.

DAY TRIP: VISIT THE ICE HOTEL

F&B: Housed in a rustic, reclaimed 19th-century warehouse overlooking the St. Lawrence River, Chez Muffy restaurant uses Old World slow-cooking techniques to produce classic French and Canadian fare made with ingredients grown on its own farm on nearby Île d’Orléans. Expect a farm-to-fork, family-style experience, “simplified gastronomy” in the form of Quebec walleye in a wild mushroom broth, venison striploin or spiced roast duck to share—all rich and comforting. The wine cellar holds more than 12,000 bottles from 14 different countries. The long and skinny lobby lounge bar Artefact is comfortable and cool. A nice pitstop between shopping and your room.

Extras: Top-floor suites are especially charming with original sloping beamed ceilings and harbour views.

Off-Site: The auberge is a short walk from the Musée de la civilization and steps away from the cobblestoned square Place Royale. The historic Old Port is right outside the door, offering up haute heritage, marina and markets, and plenty of shopping.

Rate: $$$
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Vibe: With 44 rooms, the Ice Hotel welcomes an international crowd, who rest their heads in thermal sleeping bags in –5º rooms. You have to be game for the fun of it all, but the unique beauty of the surroundings—thanks to the creations of 15 different ice sculptors—makes it all worthwhile. Expect both local and international traffic here, mostly the curious, the courageous and the canoodling. This is a great honeymoon spot, thanks to the super-romantic fairy-tale atmosphere.

Rooms: The Ice Hotel is open all day for tourists, who can wander throughout the entire hotel, including the rooms, with overnight guests not really “checking in” until after 9 p.m., when the staff has administered turn-down: i.e. rolled out the sleeping bags. Standard rooms contain a wooden-framed ice bed with a mattress and covering, plus an ice side table—that you can’t really use, because whatever you put on it will just melt into it. The sole light is incorporated into the bed frame. Dark velvet curtains cover all doorways, and not that well, so it’s best to bring earplugs, even though it’s far too cold to have sex. Fancier rooms are larger, with ice sculptures carved into the walls and gas fireplaces that are lit for about 45 minutes pre-bedtime. Guests just bring themselves to their rooms, leaving everything else in lockers in the Valcartier Hotel. Outer clothing gets stored in the nylon bags the sleeping bags come in, then you wriggle first into a nylon sheath and then into your mummy-style sleeping bag. Most guests opt for ski underwear—and a toque. Cellphones get tucked alongside your body so as not to freeze, all the better to take those all-important selfies. There are a few portable toilets, but all facilities, including showers, are inside the Valcartier.

F&B: There are nine different eating establishments within the resort area. The food is nothing special, most of it fast-food counters and ski-lodge cafés, with the exception being O’Grill, serving classic Quebec favourites, and Le Chalet Sportif, dishing out elevated pub fare. There are three ice bars furnished with ice tables and adorned with many marvellous ice sculptures and “cozy” seating areas, plus a couple of gas fireplaces.

Extras: A gorgeous ice chapel in the outer courtyard is undoubtedly one of the most romantic wedding-ceremony settings in the world. An outdoor spa area offers a hot-tub experience under the stars.

Off-Site: Ice Hotel guests can also have the run of all the Valcartier facilities, including a day spa, an outdoor tubing park and a gigantic indoor water park.

Rate: $$$

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