THINGS TO DO: IN GRENADA

Winning over tourist hearts—and thereby, dollars—through their stomachs is a win-win. At Laluna, the Italian-Caribbean fare sticks to our ribs, the menu’s homemade ravioli, pastas and risotto propped up by deliciousness like lionfish smothered in butter and grilled barracuda with pineapple salsa. We drift into dessert watching the bats dive-bombing the pool to take sips.

Over at the bustling Coconut Beach Restaurant, dishes like curried conch and ginger lobster get the full French Creole treatment, right down to the pumpkin soup. And at Aquarium on Magazine Beach, a whirl of waiters swirl around with tray after tray of gorgeous seafood—roasted black cod, curried conch or “lambie,” tuna tartare, tandoori shrimp. We are in heaven, snapped out of the reverie by a steel drum band. How they manage to play so quietly I’ll never know.

WHERE TO STAY: IN GRENADA

The main reason Grenada’s menus hit the spot is thanks to the many spices the island is well-known for: nutmeg and mace, turmeric, cinnamon, pimento, bay leaves, cloves and ginger. As well, the tree-to-bar chocolate is beyond good. All of the above made it into my luggage, treats for everyone that pack flat. We actually stop into the House of Chocolate twice and hope they don’t remember us the second time. They do, but they don’t care.

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Grand Anse Beach, just south of the main city of St. George’s, anchors a Kimpton resort, the tony Spice Island Beach Resort and the Silversands with its 100-metre pool, the longest in the Caribbean.

With few high rises and less development, Grenada still manages to possess the island charm that can seem slightly manufactured elsewhere. You enjoy the natural beauty simply because it is all around you. Nicknamed the Spice Island due to the plethora of nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, turmeric and more, Grenada boasts white-sand beaches, multiple hiking trails and gorgeous waterfalls in its lush rainforests.

Get on the water. Cruise along Grenada’s southwestern coastline in a traditional, handmade wooden boat and cast your minds adrift, rum punch in hand. There’s nothing like gazing at paradise from the water while connecting with the island’s nautical heritage. The team at Savvy Sailing can sort you out.

Get in the water. Bottom-time spent with Aquanauts Scuba completely takes the cake with a swim through the Molinere Underwater Sculpture Park. This protected area just off the coastline features more than 65 concrete works, the bulk of them by British sculptor James deCaires Taylor, set around natural gullies, creating an artificial reef that teems with marine life. The haunting “Vicissitudes” is the most noted work: 26 life-size children standing in a circle facing the current holding hands, symbolizing the cycle of life. “The Lost Correspondent” consists of a man at his desk and typewriter, like a relic from a simpler time.

WHERE TO STAY: ON GRANDE ANSE
WHERE TO STAY: IN THE NORTH

Get a massage. One of the more secluded and seductive spots on the island is also one of its most rejuvenating. Even if you’re not staying at Laluna Boutique Beach Hotel and Villas, stop in for a massage at their world-class Asian spa, with masseuses melting away cares with Eastern techniques.

Hike the hills. Find a guide to take you up forest-covered Mount Qua Qua in the Grand Etang National Park. When you reach the summit at 565 metres, pause to drink in the view of Grand Etang Lake below, a crater lake in an extinct volcano.

Trip up north. A few days at the very top of Grenada on the north coast reveals a completely different island vibe. Spend some hammock time at Petite Anse Hotel near the town of Sauteurs stretched out in front of one of the best views on the entire island. Hosts Philip and Annie Clift have developed the perfect romantic escape with their 11 cottage-style rooms. A muster of peacocks strut their stuff over at Mount Edgecombe Plantation on the northeast, where you and your pals can take over an actual Colonial-style plantation. There’s a self-contained restored historic home that sleeps eight and four rooms in what was the original spice storage house.

When you go. The best time to visit Grenada is the high-season months, from January to April when weather is the driest and 30-degree days are cooled by trade winds. May and June generally offer more affordable rates.

TASTE TO TRY: GRENADA GASTRONOMY
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