The resort was built during a time when large-scale land acquisition and development was more feasible than it is today, with modern restrictions on land use and environmental protections. As such, it is definitely one of a kind – and larger than life.

Vibe: Life’s rich pageant is on full display here, and they definitely have a bit of cash. These are “resort people,” who are fully versed in the ins and outs of Marriott life, poolside lunches, tennis lessons, tee times and all. I saw young marrieds, families with small children, multigen groups, gaggles of girls, wedding parties and a few business travellers. Nicely dressed bunch, too.

The lobby lounge is quite possibly the biggest I have ever encountered, the hub of the hotel, a gargantuan space creating an eight-floor atrium. It abuts an indoor pier, where you can hop on a wee boat and be driven through sliding glass doors into a large freshwater lake. A bevy of black swans will follow you around. Guests also enjoy a massive pool, world-class tennis facilities, an exclusive spa sanctuary and nice views of the Santa Rosa Mountains.

THINGS TO DO: IN PALM SPRINGS

Rooms: Nothing is out of place in the spacious rooms, which have a desert-chic California look and feel. The decor is comfortable and not too “out there,” so as to appeal to the majority. Expect natural colours, wood floors and mountain-inspired artwork, plus plush pillowtop beds. Bathrooms are equipped with quartz vanities and rain-style showers. Pets are welcome.

F&B: Ten dining outlets eliminate the need to go out for dinner – from poolside fare to five-course tasting menus, food is all around you, with the perfect scenery to go with it. Highlights include the patio (and the excellent service) at Rockwood Grill, the Blue Star Lounge and the Mikado Japanese Steakhouse. Aquifier65 & The Sushi Bar are situated in the above-mentioned lobby lounge, while Fisherman’s Landing provides a more casual, pub-style experience.

Spa: OMG the 3500-square-metre Spa at Desert Springs – I could have moved in. Massages, body treatments and facials, saunas and steam rooms, but the coolest thing is the private outdoor pool, a quiet sanctuary. The spa has its own bistro, plus a new coed Wellness Lounge where you can relax in fancy massage chairs, throw on a pair of headphones and indulge in a little sound therapy.

The spa’s Sanctuary Suite lends a VIP experience that can be book for two to 10 guests. This is for groups that can spa together, enjoying treatments, rain showers, high-definition TV, indoor and outdoor fireplaces, a courtyard with a whirlpool and waterfall, and your own butler.

Off-Site: About a half-hour drive from downtown Palm Springs, the resort complex is on the classy-sounding Country Club Drive near Cook Street just north of Palm Desert. It is adjacent to the Desert Springs Golf Club.

Rate: $$$ Breakfast not included. Daily resort fee of C$60 is applied to each guest room. Amenities include daily fitness classes for two, golf range access, court and equipment rentals, and a two-hour bicycle rental.

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• Ropa Vieja Grill  has a giant patio with live music, so you really can’t miss it on Ashford Avenue in Condado. It’s music you’d actually like to listen to, too, and not too loud. The restaurant is busy with both locals and tourists lapping up fresh fish, roasted meats, mofongo swimming in garlic oil—all very comforting and tasty.

• 1950 Condado just down the street from the Ropa is also local, straight-ahead Puerto Rican fare, meat- and fried-forward comfort food, like pork and red-bean rice, sofrito everything, fish tacos, frothy drinks.

THINGS TO DO: IN SAN JUAN 

• Lote 23 is a fun, open-air food court in the city’s Santurce neighbourhood, filled with picnic tables and ringed with little kiosks and trailers. You pitch up to the counter windows and order burgers, chicken sandwiches, mofongo, pizza, even cocktails. There are families and groups of pals, a nice vibe and good music. This is a fun casual night out.

• Jungle Bird sits just off the busy La Placita, serving up tropical Taíno-inspired cocktails, inventive Caribbean-Asian fusion, local ingredients, simple and fresh flavours. Great value, too.

• Sabrina sports a laid-back cool vibe, casual but upscale, all pink and green and lush. Chef Juan Camacho turns out salmon with quinoa salad, a rich fish stew, yellow fin tuna, a local crudo, light desserts. Yes, it’s named after Audrey Hepburn.

• La Central by Mario Pagán fires up the wood stoves within the Distrito T-Mobile complex for steaks the size of your head, ribs, chicken, branzino, swordfish, served with à la carte sides. Save room for the caramel corn brûlée.

• Raya by Mario Pagán on the main floor of the very cool O:LV 55 Hotel hums with the sound of cocktail-shaking and the oohs and aahs from patrons sitting down to Caribbean-Asian fusion. Sake and Japanese whiskey-infused cocktails are surely satisfying. The restaurant is also responsible for the food served on the Arya Rooftop lounge. Make a date for sunset.

DISCOVERPUERTORICO.COM

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READ MORE ABOUT: SAN JUAN

Fascinating murals from local and international artists grace various buildings in this colourful neighbourhood, telling stories of the city’s past and present. Participants can wander beyond the street corners to visit galleries and alternative art spaces—even artists’ studios.

DISCOVERPUERTORICO.COM

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The Dominican Republic had a recent bright idea, offering a recovery plan that includes medical insurance to visitors in a bid to restart its tourism-dependent economy. Promoting “a responsible recovery that prioritizes health,” the tourism board is offering a temporary free travel assistance plan in effect until December 2020 to everyone visiting a hotel, that includes emergency coverage, COVID tests and cost coverage for a long-term stay. As well, proof of a negative test is no longer required upon entry into the country. Instead, random “quick tests” will be performed.

WHERE TO STAY: IN THE D.R.

This new Dominican travel insurance is a big deal and not without a hefty price tag: $28 million in promotion and financing, and $7 million in wooing plans to solidify air routes to and from. Let’s see how long it takes other Caribbean governments to haul a big bale of money down from the attic and follow suit.

GODOMINICANREPUBLIC.COM

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The city’s roots show in myriad ways, with more than 200 cultures represented on the streets. This is one of the reasons why the culinary scene is such a big deal—there are more ingredients in the pantry to pull from. With four world-class sports teams, 20,000 acres of parkland, a spirited arts scene and a vibrant waterfront with its own airport, Toronto makes a rewarding end destination—and a great pitstop.

Watch stingrays swim over your head. The Ray Bay at Ripley’s Aquarium of Canada sports stingrays and sharks, just one of about a dozen tanks filled with 1.5 million gallons of water, home to 20,000 animal species. The backlit and colour-changing Planet Jellies exhibit is mesmerising. Aquariums have a tendency to reek of “something for the kids,” that now-famous shark-tank skinny-dipper notwithstanding, but this is total fun.

Go for a walk in the sky. The CN Tower, the 1,800-foot icon that has anchored the Toronto skyline since 1976, is visited by 1.5 million people each year. On a clear day, its 360-degree view from the LookOut level through floor-to-ceiling windows and a glass floor is spectacular. But the teeth-chattering draw is the EdgeWalk, where groups of six take a tethered walk around a ledge at 1,168 feet, to drink in the view, conquer a fear of heights, scream loudly or all of the above.

Picnic on the beach. Take the short ferry ride to one or more of the three main sections of Toronto Island. The inhabited Ward’s Island has a beach and a few cafés, while Centre Island is geared to families gathering to picnic, ride tandem bicycles, explore the gardens or take their kids to the small amusement park. Those in the know head to Hanlon’s Point and pick a spot on the clothing-optional beach to chill out for the afternoon and people-watch.

Hail the hockey heroes. Make a pilgrimage to the Hockey Hall of Fame. This collection of hockey artifacts is both a sports museum and a hall of fame, exhibiting memorabilia, records, statistics, and trophies on players, teams, officials and honourees across 65,000 square feet. This is your chance to find out more about Canada’s national winter sport (the summer one, and until recently the only one, being lacrosse). Keep an eye out for moving doors and chairs, general moaning and the odd cold spot on the second floor. The Hall is haunted.

Step back in time. The Gooderham & Worts Distillery sold their first bottle of whisky the same year Victoria became queen: 1837. Now, the Distillery District is an arts, culture and entertainment hub, perfect for passing a very pleasant few hours. The 47 industrial buildings are like a cobblestone-paved, pedestrian-only village of boutiques, housing fashion retailers, gift shops and galleries, artisanal treats, coffee hangouts, restaurants and pubs.

Get to know Group of Seven. One of the largest galleries in North America at 54,000 square yards, the Art Gallery of Ontario features more than 95,000 works, from the first century to the present day. The permanent collection includes the largest public collection of Henry Moore sculptures. But the highlight for visitors is the Canadian Collection, which includes work by Thom Thomson and the Group of Seven, a noted group of landscape artists from the early 20^th century.

Dig the dinosaur bones. With 13 million artworks, objects and specimens in its collection, the Royal Ontario Museum is one of the largest museums in North America, welcoming one million visitors every year. A national landmark founded in 1914, its myriad exhibitions, collections, events and research projects span the globe and the centuries.

Cross a cultural boundary. Promoting mutual understanding and tolerance, the Aga Khan Museum in north Toronto highlights the artistic, intellectual, and scientific heritage of Muslim civilizations across the centuries, from the Iberian Peninsula to China.

Challenge their little minds. While you’re in the north end, check out one of the world’s first interactive science museums, opening in 1969. The Ontario Science Centre maintains eight exhibit halls with installations, live demonstrations and hands-on learning, digging into everything from biology to astronomy. Plan for several hours, as there is a lot of ground to cover.

Spark one up. Recreational cannabis is now legal in Canada, so if you’re so inclined, you can buy and smoke or vape marijuana on the street, in the park or in someone’s private home. Visit agco.ca for a map of authorized retail stores in Toronto.

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I borrowed a few notes from her kimchi cookbook and have experimented with different styles and ingredients, before finding the recipe below online, which I continue to tweak to my taste. The thing is, you can ferment your kimchi for a few hours or for three days, depending on how you like it. And when you make it yourself, you also control the salt.

I soak my cabbage in salt water overnight, throw everything together (use gloves or you will have red hands for days!), cram it into jars and let it sit covered like this with little hats for 48 hours. Every morning, I poke it with a long knife to release the gas collecting at the bottom of the jars. THEN, I put the lids on and stash it in the fridge.

The benefits of kimchi are supposedly myriad, but the main one is that the healthy bacteria and probiotics promote good gut health. It is also said to lower cholesterol levels.

So easy and the kids love it!

The Best Kimchi Recipe

180 g coarse salt
1 large Napa cabbage
300 g daikon radish
1 carrot
3 spring onions, chopped
4 garlic cloves
4 cm root ginger, peeled
50 g Korean red chili flakes (gochugaru)
1 tsp sugar
2 tbsp fish sauce

Boil and cool salted water. Boil 1.5 L of water with the salt, lower to medium and stir to dissolve. Pour into a large bowl and leave to cool

Prep the cabbage. Rinse the cabbage and chop it lengthways into quarters. Remove the cabbage core. Cut the quarters crossways into thick slices about 4 cm wide.

Soak the cabbage in brine. Put the cabbage in a large bowl and cover with the cooled water and toss slightly. Leave to sit in a cool place (but not the fridge) overnight—or for at least three hours.

Prep the other veg. Wash and cut the other vegetables into bite-sized cubes. I sometimes cut up a leek. Sprinkle with a bit of salt, leave to sit for half an hour, then drain.

Make the seasoning. Chop the garlic and ginger and put them in a bowl with the chili flakes, sugar and fish sauce, then loosen with about 150 ml cold water. Drain and rinse the cabbage then shake and pat the leaves dry in a clean towel. Then put the cabbage back into the large bowl, pour in the seasoning and toss to coat.

TASTE TO TRY: BAJAN COU-COU
TASTE TO TRY: KIMCHI ZUCCHINI

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All through summer’s ubiquitous salads—cous cous! palm hearts!—I seem to crave mashed potatoes and gravy, lamb shank and gravy, really anything with gravy, including poutine, which I’ve taken to making at home in my own little COVID world. (Being gluten-mostly-free, I can’t in good conscience eat sourdough.)

Hungarian Goulash—wow, talk about burying the lede—is one of my favourites year-round, and I keep a stash of it in the back of the freezer in case I need a little stew hug. It sits next to the plastic tubs of Coq au vin; similar idea, different country.

This picture comes from a trip to the top of Blackcomb Mountain during a pitstop at Horstman Hut, elevation 2,300 metres. The little Alpine hut also serves things like pot pies, bangers and mash, perfect for a winter mid-ski lunch. It doesn’t look like much, but it was truly exquisite.

My all-season Hungarian goulash goes in the slow cooker, spiced with onion, clove, paprika, caraway, coriander and thyme. I use a recipe from Food & Wine with four pounds of diced beef short ribs, which I get from Meating on Queen—they’re Ecuadorian and know everything about meat. I serve it on buttered noodles with sour cream, close my eyes, and I’m back on the farm in Budapest…

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Partially built over the old rampart, Auberge Saint-Antoine has worked archaeological treasures discovered on the site into its décor. Unearthed crockery, glass, hardware and household items, some dating back to the 1600s, punctuate cozy nooks, room entrances and lobby walls. Fitting then, that Saint Antoine is the patron saint of lost articles.

Vibe: Find classic comfort in every corner with museum-like surroundings and polished, anticipatory service. This hotel is quintessentially Quebec in every way—sophisticated but not stuffy, elegant but not exaggerated. Guests are a mix of well-heeled tourists and regular creative business patrons taking comfort in a refined atmosphere of functional luxury.

Rooms: Ninety-five rooms and suites in eight different categories make for a sound sleep, all reflecting a different style—no cookie-cutting design here. In general, though, a mix of traditional and contemporary styling brings together natural colours, stone walls, tufted or studded textured headboards, low furnishings, faux-fur and velvets, flowing drapery and unexpected patterns. Colourful, bright bathrooms gleam and heated flooring is very welcome in this part of the world. Suites range up to 700 square feet, plus a panoramic room at 750 square feet on the top floor.

DAY TRIP: VISIT THE ICE HOTEL

F&B: Housed in a rustic, reclaimed 19th-century warehouse overlooking the St. Lawrence River, Chez Muffy restaurant uses Old World slow-cooking techniques to produce classic French and Canadian fare made with ingredients grown on its own farm on nearby Île d’Orléans. Expect a farm-to-fork, family-style experience, “simplified gastronomy” in the form of Quebec walleye in a wild mushroom broth, venison striploin or spiced roast duck to share—all rich and comforting. The wine cellar holds more than 12,000 bottles from 14 different countries. The long and skinny lobby lounge bar Artefact is comfortable and cool. A nice pitstop between shopping and your room.

Extras: Top-floor suites are especially charming with original sloping beamed ceilings and harbour views.

Off-Site: The auberge is a short walk from the Musée de la civilization and steps away from the cobblestoned square Place Royale. The historic Old Port is right outside the door, offering up haute heritage, marina and markets, and plenty of shopping.

Rate: $$$
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Vibe: Now almost 80 years old, with its Art Deco limestone exterior and chateau-like roofline, the privately owned Lord Elgin manages to sustain a connection to its storied past as one of the capital city’s hubs for the business and bureaucratic crowds. The Art Deco décor carries on inside to a long lobby lined with maple panelling and marble flooring is a great meeting place for locals, anchored by Grill 41 at one end and a Starbucks on the other.

Rooms: The 355 rooms are 180 to 270 square feet in size, extremely clean and well-maintained. Maple headboards and cabinets are paired with a muted beige and brown colour palette. Comfortable pillow-top mattresses and ample pillows—there’s a pillow menu, too—make for a sound sleep. A chaise longue provides a relaxing spot for reading or watching TV in the larger rooms. Well-lit bathrooms clad in Carrera marble feature a walk-in shower and natural, Canadian-made Truterra amenities.

F&B: At Grill 41 Restaurant & Bar, a club-table lounge area gives way to a square marble and wood bar, and on into a 132-seat casual dining room. Grilled meats and your choice of sauces is the order of the day here, with steaks, chops and skewers propped up with a selection of pastas, pizzas and other comfort foods.

HOW-TO: DRINK YOUR WAY AROUND OTTAWA

Extras: A 24-hour basement gym is attached to a 50-foot pool and whirlpool, its grey and white tiling amped up with brightly coloured Adirondack chairs and a street-side skylight. The change rooms have lockers and saunas (turn it on first before your swim).

Off-Site: On Elgin Street across from Confederation Park where the Ottawa Jazz Festival takes place each June, the Lord Elgin is a 10-minute walk from Parliament Hill, City Hall and the Rideau Centre shopping mall anchored by Nordstrom. Both the National Gallery of Canada and busy Byward Market are a 15-minute walk away. The National Arts Centre is across the street and the ceremonial Changing of the Guard goes right past the hotel each morning at 10am through July and August. Elgin is also a good street for pubs and restaurants, and lends easy access to several main thoroughfares.

Rate: $$
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With just 20,000 people, Akureyri is big enough to be bustling, but small enough to be cozy, the best of both worlds. It’s the main port and fishing centre in the north, thanks in part to an ice-free harbour. This is due to a mild, sub-Arctic climate, which puts the winters at about -2ºC and summer’s highs at about 15ºC.

Whether you’re going in June to take advantage of the 23-hour sunlight or visiting in November to see the Northern Lights, rent a car and drive around for a week. The landscape is incredible, the people sensible and the activities unique.

Make camp. There are a number of hotel offerings to sift through, but you’re staying at Icelandair Hotel Akureyri. Cozy, comfortable, bright and airy, this no-nonsense spot is used to the traffic of people popping in for only one or two nights. In the winter, the hotel also makes extra effort to accommodate skiers with a heated ski storage area with lockers and a private entrance. And the ski bus stop is right at the hotel’s front door.

Make a splash. Right across the street from the Icelandair Hotel, the geothermal Akureyri swimming pool is one of the best in all of Europe. There are two 25-metre outdoor pools, an indoor pool, four hot tubs, a steam bath and sauna and all of it is open year-round. This is a perfect winter afternoon, pre-nap soak.

Fill up. There’s a surprising number of great places to eat in Akureyri, depending on what you feel like. Head to Greifinn for pizza, Bautinn for comfort food, Rub23 for steak and sushi (this is a night out), Götubarinn for tunes and suds (this is where all the kids are) and Hamborgarafabrikkan for square hamburgers on square buns. Tipple tip: Lava-filtered water makes Reyka Vodka an international award-winner.

Get out. Besides the different museums, gardens, Hof Cultural Centre and the amazing Akureyri Church, there are multiple things on the to-do list, many of them out of town. Godafoss and Dettifoss waterfalls and Asbyrgi canyon are well worth the drive. Make the road trip a complete circle, encompassing a trip around Lake Myvatn and a stop at the peaceful and rustic Myvatn Nature Baths, a geothermal spa—seriously, do not miss seeing this place.

THINGS TO DO: IN ICELAND

Straddle the crack. Before heading back to Akureyri, stop at the nearby Grjotagja Cave. Iceland is on a volcanic seam, at what’s called the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, essentially where the tectonic plates of North America and Europe meet. Here you can stand with one foot on each plate, astride two continents.

Get crazy. Halfway up the inlet, there is a Beer Spa where you can have a beer bath. And just south of town, there’s a Christmas store with giant liquorice allsorts on the roof. This is where your souvenir money comes out.

Hit the slopes. With seven lifts, 23 slopes and a 450-metre vertical, Hlidarfjall Ski Hill is Iceland’s top place for skiing and snowboarding, the snow lasting longer than anywhere else in the country. Bonus points for it being only 5 km from town.

Zen out. Minimal light pollution means more chances to see the Northern Lights in Akureyri on a clear winter night.

VISITAKUREYRI.IS

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